What is a Brazilian Blowout? What does it do, and why do I need one?
Everyone, I repeat, EVERYONE could benefit from a Brazilian Blowout.
Completely customizable – You can keep your curls and loose the frizz or create the smoothest result possible. Your stylist will vary the temperature and amount of passes with the flat iron to suit your needs.
No down time – You can get a Brazilian Blowout and immediately put your hair up, curl it, braid it or use bobby pins. Need to leave the salon and go to the gym? Put your hair up and wash it after you work out without the fear of undoing or damaging your final result. Gone are the days where you can't tuck your hair behind your ear or wear it up after a smoothing treatment for fear of putting a "kink" in your hair until it grows out.
Great for all hair types – Curly, kinky, coily, frizzy, fine, damaged or coarse, we’ve got you covered. Again, the treatment is completely customizable meaning we can add volume to fine hair, smooth out curls, reduce frizz and even help reverse some damage.
No change to curl pattern – After about 12 weeks, natural curl pattern returns. This will be a slow wash out your natural curl pattern will slowly return. Everyone will have varied wash out periods because of the customized results.
No line of demarcation with new hair growth – Great for transitioning from Japanese straighteners, relaxers or other keratin treatments. Straightening services, due to them changing the hair permanently, always look a little odd growing out and causes the wearer to be forced to style their hair until it grows out. A Brazilian Blowout can help you transition back into your natural texture by blending your natural hair into your straightened hair.
Treatment is finished at salon – After about 90 minutes, you leave the salon with smooth, frizz free hair and the only follow up is with a sulfate free shampoo.
Easier styling- Your styling time will be quicker and easier. Your hair won't be as porous and won't hold on to as much water making blow drying quicker. You will also have to do less brush and iron work because you will already be smooth!
If any of the above interests you, you should consider a Brazilian Blowout.
Your hair is WHAT color?
Brightly colored hair is beautiful and one of my favorite things to do in the chair. I love that we live in a time where fantasy color is becoming more and more mainstream and accepted. Some people come in and think I can just wave a wand and their hair will magically be bright green, I wish it were this easy.
The truth is, vivid and pastel colors are extremely high maintenance colors; it's going to grow out, it's going to fade and you're going to spend more time in the salon, in the chair, getting it retouched and renewed. Although there is nothing you can do about the growing out (nor would you want to) there are a few things you can do about fading. If you're getting or thinking about getting a fantasy color for the first time be prepared to be in the salon for hours lifting, sometimes more than once, and toning before you even see a bright color in the bowl.
All hair colors, brunettes, blondes and redheads, I'm looking at you redheads, can keep their locks looking fresh by changing just a few things in their daily routine. And After you have your new color, here are a few ways to keep it in tip top shape.
1. Quality Product
You just spent a good "chunk-o-change" on your hair, why would you go home and use a shampoo and conditioner that isn't color safe on it? There are a lot of "color safe" and color shampoos that are perfect for the job, but my favorite line for this is the Ultimate Color Repair line from Paul Mitchell. Shea butter, jojoba and soybean oil leave hair soft, shiny and healthy while powerful antioxidants provide UV protection to help resist color fade and prevent damage. The line consists of a shampoo, conditioner, thermal conditioning spray and mask.
2. Avoid UV Exposure
Easier said than done, you will need to refresh your color more often in the spring and summer. Using a product with UV blockers in your hair, like the Triple Rescue, will help protect against fading. If you do not have access to or will not use a product with UV blockers, wearing a hat during extended sun exposure will help prevent fading as well.
3. Turn Down the Heat
Guy Tang, international hair guru, made a video in February 2016 showing how heat affects colors.
Shocking, I know.
Why does this happen? Color is deposited directly under and/ or on top of the cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair, depending on if a permanent, demi-permanent or semi-permanent color is used. Different colors have different sized molecules, but let's not get to technical. Basically, your hair's cuticle opens with heat and closes with cold.
Think of the cuticle as shingles on a house. When your house has a new roof and all the shingles lay neatly on top of each other, keeping in what needs to be kept in and out what needs to be kept out. As time goes on shingles loosen, crack and separate so does the cuticle.
The cuticle opens slightly with each wash and closes, allowing small amounts of color out each time. The hotter the water, the more the cuticle opens and the more color can escape. Cool and lukewarm water are best for washing ANY colored hair in for this reason. Flat irons, curling irons, wands, blow dryers, any hot tool also opens up the cuticle which allows color to escape and cause fading.
4. Wash Less
Washing everyday strips your hair of natural oils needed to replenish dry, damaged hair and as stated above, the cuticle opens slightly with each wash, allowing color to escape. You should wait at least 24 hours after getting your hair colored to wash your hair the first time to allow your cuticle to close as much as possible, sealing in as much color as you can. If you are an every day washer and want to try to wash less and can't make the jump to every other day cold turkey, try washing every 36 hours for a week or so and then transition to every other day.
I was an everyday washer for years before I started wearing a vivid, once I saw how quick it faded I knew I needed to make a change. I hated it to start and thought I would have to just deal with the fading, because I knew I couldn't deal with the grease. After a few weeks I noticed my hair was softer and I wasn't experiencing the same amount of oil as I was before.
You can use a dry shampoo as well; I typically don't because I find that when I do, I get greasier by the end of the day.
Let's talk hot stuff
We all remember this video, but if you don't, watch it here.
I won't even start on the whole professional versus non-professional, in-salon versus drug store brand rant. So why did this happen?
Her natural blonde hair is much more fragile than that of a brunette or red head. Blonde's often lack one of the three layers of the hair strand, the medulla. Now although this doesn't affect most aspects of hairdressing, it does mean that natural blonde's need to take better care of their hair and use caution when styling and receiving chemical services. Speaking of chemicals, over processing can lead to weaker, more damaged hair.
Her next mistake was product choice; she chose a leave-in conditioner which has no heat protectant qualities. And that's assuming she would properly use a heat protectant. Some people think they need to use a lot of product for it to be effective. This is untrue and in most cases a less-is-more approach is best. When applying any spray or aerosol product, hold the bottle about twelve inches away from hair, unless otherwise directed, to avoid using too much and ensure an even distribution.
Also, her wand appears to be up on the highest heat and she held it on way too long. For someone who has fine hair like herself this is a huge NO-NO and is the most common cause of breakage and in more extreme cases, like this one, hair melting off. Your hair type and texture affect how much heat your hair needs to lock a look in place. Thick, curly hair requires more heat and thin, fine hair needs less. But never should you hold for longer than ten seconds. If you are unsure of what temperature your hair needs start low and work your way up, increasing time before you increase heat. I will count to three and release or 'test' the hair by tapping my finger and seeing if the heat has penetrated through.
What should I use?
My personal favorite is Paul Mitchell's Hot Off The Press. In some cases I use another heat protectant before I blow dry but often I allow my hair to air dry and then go in with irons. I love this one because it has a little hold to it but still allows me to have touchable, crunch free hair. HOTP is also a hairspray so perfect for traveling! Since my hair is already dry (and super fine) a lot of serums and sprays won't work the way I need them to unless I want to re-wet or re-dry my hair.
Make sure your irons are evenly heated and you don't have "hot spots" and keep your heat down! My flat iron is rarely over 320* and when it is, it's never more than 360*. Quality tools are worth the investment, when looking for a new flat iron, curling iron or wand, look for adjustable heat, evenly distributed through the iron. I love Paul Mitchell Neuro tools because they check the temperature every three seconds, making sure you're receiving consistent heat.
It doesn't really matter what you are using, the smell of burning hair is never a good thing and unless there is hair trapped in your blow dryer or iron (that's not attached to your head) it should be a huge red flag and you should stop what you're doing and turn down the heat.
Back of the bottle...
"Define, separate and tame unruly curls and waves into perfect ringlets. The dual formula of hydrating cream and smoothing gel creates soft, shiny, frizz-free spirals that won't get crunchy or stiff. Directions: Emulsify in hands and work through hair to form sculpted ringlets. Scrunch to exaggerate curls and waves. Air dry or diffuse.
YES. This is one of my go to products for my curly haired clients. With ingredients like Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil and Apricot Oil what's not to love? Now I know that two of those products are more mainstreamed than the third so let's shine some light on the benefits of Apricot Oil.
Apricot Oil is rich in oleic acid as well as Vitamins A and E which all have amazing benefits for hair, skin and body. Vitamin A supports skin health and repair, it can help soothe irritated scalp, and soften fine lines in the skin. Vitamin E supports healthy hair growth, and is believed to prevent hair loss. Research shows that Vitamin E repairs damaged follicles and contains antioxidants that improve circulation to the scalp. It conditions your hair from the root to the shaft and ensuring healthier growth.
Please visit my post on Marula Oil for a closer look at oleic acid.
I don't use this product, my hair is stick straight and my only curls are at my temples. I first tried Twirl Around on a recommendation from another stylist as a replacement for a product we had discontinued, she loved it. The product she had previously used left her hair a little crunchy but still have her that ringlet look she was going for. She has since switched to the whole line, shampoo, conditioner and the Twirl Around and enjoys her frizz-free, soft and bouncy curls.
My favorite way to use it is to apply it to damp hair, starting in the back and working towards the front. After applied I will finger rake through just to distribute the product a bit more root to end then twist into "dread lock" like sections, no less than five depending on how curly or wavy a result I want. Sometimes I will scrunch extra moisture out with a towel before diffusing.
If you are a curly girl (or guy, I won't judge) looking for something to define your natural texture without the crunch or the frizz, I believe this product is for you.
Worth the hype?
Marula oil has been used for hundreds of years by the Tsonga people in South Africa and Mozambique to moisturize their skin, hair and nails.
They separate the kernels from the fruit and then crush by hand using hard rocks. It is then cold pressed and the oil filtered without use of any solvent making the process 100% organic. The extracted oil is light yellow in color, clear and has a pleasant aroma. Marula oil is known to be rich in antioxidants and monounsaturated fatty acids namely palmitic, linoleic, alpha-linoleic, stearic and oleic acids. These qualities are essential in maintenance of healthy, glowing skin and hair.
Marula oil is known to soften and rejuvenate the skin and hair due to its high concentration of oleic acid. This is one of the many reasons it is used as an ingredient for dry skin care products to hydrate the skin and reduce redness or irritation. It absorbs quickly and is non greasy and can be used on any skin and hair type. It has a high concentration of palmitic acid which forms a protective coating on the skin's surface, helping damaged skin and hair heal.
When Paul Mitchell came out with their Marula Oil line I thought they were trying to rip off other oil based lines and it took me a really long time to try it. I was given a sample last October at PM hair camp and I was VERY excited at this point because I had heard the hype. I got home, got in the shower and proceeded to use ALL of the shampoo, ALL of the conditioner and I threw the masque on top of that and let it sit like I normally would. I got out of the shower and emptied the entire 7 ml vial into my hair and tried to blow dry. I hated it. I got back in the shower, washed with my normal shampoo and went about my day.
Two months later it was explained to me that you use DROPS of this product it is very concentrated and most people with baby fine hair like mine have a hard time using the shampoo, conditioner and oil all at once. I tried it again and fell in love. It smells amazing. It works fantastic and the best part is my super fine hair isn't left sopping wet or greasy. I started using it on my skin on areas that were dry and my cuticles around my nails. My nails have been brittle for the past three to four years and they're finally growing. I cannot express how happy I am that I retried this product and didn't just write it off as something that wouldn't work for me.
Worth a try?
If you haven't tried Marula yet I strongly suggest you do! One bottle of Marula oil yields about 175 applications if you follow the three drop rule. That's six months of Marula if you use it every day and less than $0.25 per application which makes this "rare luxury oil" a perfect, affordable addition to your regular hair and skin care regime.
"The only brush you'll ever need"
Why do we LOVE this brush?
The wet brush is a healthy way to detangle hair after showering. The magic of the Wet Brush is in its unique IntelliFlex bristles. IntelliFlex bristles are thin, strong and very flexible. They have intelligent flexibility meaning they are firm on one stroke and flexible with the next. The adaptability of the bristles eliminates all tugging, tearing, pulling and ripping avoiding unnecessary split ends and breakage.
What does this mean?
As hairdressers we learn never to brush wet hair to prevent pulling the hair. Pulling the hair can cause you to loose elasticity and loosing elasticity can lead to breakage, unfortunately this rule is seldom passed along to the salon guest who will continue to brush their wet hair.
Special attention should be taken with wet hair. Hair that is saturated with water is very fragile and can stretch easier than dry hair. This means it is much easier to stretch hair past its breaking point when wet and permanently diminish its elasticity, or even cause breakage. For this reason it is crucial to use proper tools and tension when you are combing (or Wet Brushing) your hair.
We love the Wet Brush because it is easy to use. No need to change habits, just tools. Kids love it because it pulls less, parents love it because there are less tears.
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